- Join a food tour
- Take a gondola ride
- Visit the islands of Murano and Burano
- Take in the iconic landmarks of San Marco
- Tuck into plenty of cicchetti, gelato and cannoli
- Enjoy a spot of shopping
Arriving early evening due to a delayed flight, we got off the coach (ATVO timetable) at Piazzale Roma and were met with the unique and fascinating city that is Venice. A hive of activity with people jumping on vaparettos and wheeling their cases along the narrow pathways. The vaparettos are not cheap if you’re just getting a one-way journey, especially for a whole family so we braved it and walked to our apartment. As you head out of Piazzale Roma, you’ll find narrow canals lined with waterfront restaurants, lights twinkling as people tuck into delicious bowls of pasta and mouth-watering seafood. After a 20-minute walk, hauling our cases up and down bridges and over cobbled paths, we reached Dorsoduro. We were met by a lovely lady who showed us to our apartment just minutes from the promenade looking out across the water to Giudecca. It was in a great location and perfect for a family of 4-6 people. The furnishings were a little tired in places but overall a good find. More details can be found here.
Day 1
Join a food tour
A great way to get your bearings and sample some of the city’s culinary delights, join a food tour on your first day. They can vary in price but we booked one (more details here) through Airbnb and it was great value for money. There were around 12 people in the group and our guide took us to some hidden, unassuming spots with delicious treats. There were four stops included, all with generous samples to try along with suggested wines and spritzers to purchase – plenty of cicchetti (Venetian style tapas) and of course gelato. First stop was Cantina do Mori which is said to be the oldest cicchetti bar in Venice and a favourite with Casanova for his first dates. Our guide who was at university in Venice, was fun and engaging providing an insight into the history and also modern-day food culture in the city. He also took us through the famous Rialto Market although it was closed (do the tour from Tuesday to Saturday and you will see it in full swing). We loved one of the places so much we enjoyed lunch here on the last day.
Take a gondola ride
A controversial question, is it worth the exorbitant fare? at €80 for a 30-minute ride, it’s not cheap but if you have a family or group of up to 5 people, it’s not quite as bad. Make sure to board your gondola in one of the quieter canals away from the busy thoroughfares and you’ll enjoy the peaceful, atmospheric waterways hidden in the city – all you’ll hear are their calls to each other as they turn a corner. These flat-bottomed rowing boats with ornate decorations and colourful, velvet cushions are a work of art and a fun way to travel around Venice as the rich would have done hundreds of years ago. Equally beautiful to admire from one of the many bridges.
Day 2
Murano and Burano
Purchase a 24-hour card for the vaparetto and you can travel from your hotel or apartment and out to the islands surrounding Venice. There are vaparettos from various stops taking you to Murano and Burano and the closest will depend on where you’re staying. We found Google Maps the easiest for planning our route. Burano was definitely our favourite but it was fun to visit Murano first and watch a glass blowing demonstration. We purchased a ticket in advance at The Original Murano Glass for €5 per person (no charge for children under 14). It was pretty cool watching them create a delicate horse ornament out of molten glass. They then invite you to the showroom. Hold on tight to your rucksacks and small children as you definitely don’t want any breakages when you see the prices. We were all amazed by the incredible creations made from glass and enjoyed choosing which items we would like for our house – a chandelier with coloured raindrops or an underwater scene in a lamp. The island itself is a much smaller version of Venice with canals and bridges, pretty squares and waterfront cafes. My daughter and I enjoyed wandering around the giftshops looking at the jewellery and glass homewares.
Next stop was Burano. Even in October, it took us around an hour to queue for the vaparetto from Murano. The journey between the two takes about 25 minutes. Burano is an Instagram heaven with rainbow painted buildings around every corner. It was a beautiful sunny day and did get crowded but if you head a little further out from the main streets, full of shops and restaurants, you can wander slowly taking in the relaxed, colourful vibe. Sit outside one of the many café bars with an Aperol Spritz and some cicchetti and grab a gelato.
Disembarking the vaparetto back in Venice, we wandered back through the Canareggio neighbourhood. Venturing along dark narrow streets leading to bustling squares, it is another popular district with locals and worth considering as a base in Venice.
After a long day with miles covered, we took the vaparetto from Rialto Bridge to Accademia bridge – a wonderful way to enjoy the hustle and bustle of the city’s main thoroughfare. Travelling through rush hour but on water with the sun setting in the horizon was slightly different to your average commute home.
Day 3
The sights of San Marco
The best thing about visiting Venice is just wandering around the narrow streets and canals and seeing where it takes you, whilst taking in the unique and magical atmosphere. After a 30-minute stroll heading over the awe-inspiring Grand Canal on the Accademia Bridge, we were in San Marco. Although heaving with tourists, it is home to the architectural wonders of Saint Mark’s Square including the Campanile, Doge’s Palace and St Mark’s Basilica. If you fancy splashing out you can enjoy coffee or lunch at one of the famous cafes accompanied by the resident orchestra. Maybe not quite as romantic, we escaped the crowds and found a little square nearby for coffee and cannoli (delicious tube-shaped pastries filled with chocolate, lemon and pistachio).
For 360˚ views of Venice Island and beyond, the Campanile towering over St Mark’s Square, is the place to go. Taking the lift to the top, we were met with breath-taking views in every direction. As the mist cleared, we could see for miles over roof tops and church spires and across the water to San Giorgio Maggiore.
Wander out of the square and along the waterfront lined with gondolas and you’ll find artists at work. You’ll also come to the Bridge of Sighs, an enclosed bridge which gets its name from the sighs of prisoners as they crossed the bridge from Palazzo Ducale and admired the lagoon once last time.
If you need to get across the Grand Canal and the nearest bridge isn’t close by, take the Traghetto. A cheaper, not quite so atmospheric, alternative to a gondola ride, it’s a fun way to get across the canal and only €2 per person.
Hosting the world-famous Venice Carnival annually, you’ll find many shops selling elaborately decorated masks. Appreciating the craftmanship and incredible creations produced was fun for both us adults and the children. There are several mask making workshops around the city for all the family. Our 13-year-old son wasn’t too fussed on the idea though.
After making our way back to the Cichetti place visited on our food tour for a delicious lunch of small toasted baguette slices topped with prawns with sweet onions, brie and marmalade and seabass pate, we stopped at La Fenice for a look inside. An impressive theatre with an interesting history and ornate decorations, the family ticket was very reasonable and included an audio guide.
For teens/tweens who love a bit of shopping, you’ll find H&M and Zara close by.. They will also love Captain Candy which is a sugar heaven. Be prepared for a dent in your wallet there though.
Where to eat in Dorsoduro
A lively neighbourhood popular with both locals, students and tourists. Enjoy a waterfront venue or head to Campo Santa Margherita or one of the hidden canal side eateries.
OKE Zattere – Looking out over the sparkling lights of Guideca, an extensive pizza menu with plenty for both vegetarians and meat lovers.
Al Profeta – Traditional restaurant with small indoor dining room and large covered outdoor seating. Lively place with something for everyone with pages of pizza options, grilled meats, seafood and homemade pasta and gnocchi. We tried the seabass ravioli and gnocchi with beef cheek.
Bakaro – Lovely little restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating in the buzzing square of Campo Santa Margherita. Simple pasta dishes with good quality, fresh ingredients, burgers, steaks and fish dishes. Traditional cuisine with a contemporary twist.
Africa Experience – If you fancy something a bit different one night, this place is great. A fusion of various African dishes and also meze plates to share. A fun atmosphere with colourful décor and cosy dining areas with cushions on the floor as well as larger tables for groups.
Fam Full of Wanderlust 