Leaving the family behind this time, I’ve just spent three fantastic nights in the cool kite surfing town of Tarifa. A weekend break in Tarifa is ideal with both friends, family and kids and we all fell in love with this soulful Spanish town on the most southerly tip of Europe.
Day 1: Playa de Los Lances
Arriving into Gibraltar airport, we pre-booked a taxi transfer for €160 return for the 45 minute journey. After an early start, a relaxed lunch in one of the chilled chiringuitos (beach bars) along Playa de Los Lances (an incredible 7km long and one of the longest beaches in the region) was much appreciated. Papaya and Café del Mar are good choices with salads, smoothies and light snacks.
With sunny skies and a warm 27 degrees, we enjoyed the afternoon on the beach marvelling at the kite surfers and cooling off in the waves. You could almost be fooled into thinking you were in the Caribbean with soft white sand and clear, turquoise waters. With a long, wide stretch of sand the beach never feels packed which is lovely. It can get quite windy, hence the popularity with kite surfers but the breeze kept us cool.
Day 2: Tarifa town and Playa Chica
Staying in an self catering apartment around 10 minutes from the centre of Tarifa on Playa de Los Lances, we stopped for breakfast close by at the cool Surla Cafe where you’ll find an extensive breakfast menu including delicious açai bowls and creative egg dishes alongside great coffee.
We then headed into Tarifa along the beachfront promenade to explore the old town. Great for a spot of shopping, you’ll find some beautiful jewellery, clothes and homeware with a boho chic vibe in the narrow white washed streets. Coffee and juice bars are also big here and perfect for people watching.
Getting blown away in the wind, we walked along the causeway to Tarifa Island where you’ll see the Mediterranean Sea on one side and the Atlantic on the other. This corner of the beach is also a popular spot for kite surfers. An exhilarating sport which will wow you with the height and skill – they make it look effortless! We stopped for lunch at the popular Balneario Beach Club where you’ll have a fantastic view. They also have sun loungers to rent if it’s a calm day for sunbathing.
Playa Chica is a small cove just on the other side of the causeway and perfect for a swim. It does get busy as it is small and supposedly more sheltered from the wind but again the waters and sand are gorgeous.
In the evenings, we followed the lead of the Spanish and stopped for cocktails on the beach whilst watching the most incredible sunset, then around 9-10pm the town really comes alive with people and for a great atmosphere, this is the time to eat. The first night we were sitting down for dinner at 7.30pm and were the only table.
Day 3: Tangier
We were undecided on whether to make the trip over to Tangier but were so glad we did. After reading conflicting opinions and unsure about how hassled we would get, we were pleasantly surprised. Although the shopkeepers want to invite you in, they were very polite and understanding and overall, it was an enjoyable shopping experience. We booked the ferry from the FRS office close to Tarifa port the day before but you can also book online. The ferry is comfortable with plenty of seating and a cafe and being quite big, you shouldn’t feel too seasick. Choosing the 9am departure (gets you into Tangier at 9am due to the time difference) and the 2pm ferry home (gets you home at 4pm), we had a lovely morning wandering around the Medina, and up to the Kasbah. It takes less than 10 minutes to walk from the port to the entrance of the medina.
Espace d’Exposition de la Mémoire d’Ibn Battouta was recommended to us by a waiter so we checked it out. It was a modern museum with interesting exhibits based around the explorer born in Tangier and his travels around the world. Right opposite is a delightful little cafe where you can enjoy a fresh lemon and mint juice in a quiet, peaceful square along with friendly cats and their kittens. We were also followed for miles by a very friendly dog. Although stray, we were told they ensure they’re vaccinated and chipped. He was very keen to show us round.
For lunch, we stopped at Juice Bar Kasbah with its charming roof top terrace with colourful cushions offering a welcoming rest from the sun. The menu here is a healthy one with tagines, salads, sandwiches , homemade quiches and a fantastic juice menu. The simple orange juice with cinnamon is a delicious lightly spiced yet refreshing drink.
After lunch we explored the medina and souks as we headed back down to the port. You can easily spend an hour just getting lost in the labyrinth of instagramable streets with white washed buildings brimming with flowers and intricately tiled entrances. Keep some space in your luggage for the beautiful ceramics on offer which are so cheap. The colourful textiles including cushion covers and rugs are also good quality at a reasonable price. Most shops and cafes will accept Euros but the exchange rate won’t be as favourable and you’ll usually get the change in dirhams so definitely worth getting some local currency before you travel.
There is also a ferry home at 6pm if you want to explore further afield but this wouldn’t get you back into Tarifa until 8pm. If you do decide to stay longer, Cape Spartel with its iconic lighthouse and spectacular ocean views and the Caves of Hercules can be reached easily by taxi. Overall, Tangier was an excellent introduction to Morocco and a surprisingly chilled way to spend the morning.
Must sees if you have time:
There is only one taxi firm in Tarifa and they’re not easy to come by so a car is recommended if you want to visit some of the other neighbouring beaches. We didn’t bother with a car as we were only there for the weekend but Playa de Bolonia, Playa Punta Paloma and Playa Valdevaqueros are popular choices and all within a short drive . We were also sad to miss out on whale watching which the area is so famous for as unfortunately the winds were too strong. Firmm offer daily tours and ensure a respectful way of enjoying these fascinating creatures.
Beach bars and Restaurants:
Surla – Amazing breakfasts and good coffee with a trendy vibe.
Café del Mar – Located on Playa de Los Lances. International menu with regional daily specials.
Papaya – Laidback beachfront bar for pre-dinner cocktails and beach snacks.
Waikiki Beach Bar – Located on Playa de Los Lances. A great party vibe with live music, good cocktail menu and seats in the sand to sit back and enjoy the sunset.
Bar El Otro Melli – Casual outdoor dining in a lively square with an extensive tapas menu with all the traditional favourites including croquetas, patatas bravas, Padrón peppers, seafood and fresh salads.
No. 6 Cocina Sencilla – Located in a quiet side street in the old town, serving contemporary fusion tapas dishes combining flavours from around the world.
Restaurante La Trattoria – After one too many cocktails at Waikiki, pizza was much appreciated. Here you’ll find a varied menu with plenty of pizza toppings to choose from.
El Lola and El Frances – In the heart of the old town, these two popular tapas bars don’t take reservations and were buzzing with people every night of our trip. Get in there before the Spanish who tend to eat later and you might be lucky.
The Costa de la Luz is a beautiful part of Spain with long sandy beaches and interesting towns to explore including Jerez de la Frontera, Cadiz and Vejer de la Frontera. We spent a summer holiday here a few years ago. Check out my blog below for inspiration if you fancy a longer trip. You can also read our guides to Granada and Nerja for another fantastic Andalucían itinerary.
Fam Full of Wanderlust 