This city has a crazy energy and a true love of football (the streets were literally covered in blue after a premiership win). It has a raw, unpolished charm unlike anywhere else we’ve visited in Italy. Often overlooked with tourists heading straight for the more glamorous towns on the coast, it’s definitely worth a visit for a day or two.
Don’t miss…
- A funicular ride up to Castel Sant’Elmo for fantastic views of the city and bay and an interesting contemporary art museum.
- Learning how to make the best Neapolitan pizza.
- A stroll along the 3km Lungomare (seafront promenade) and a drink in one of the buzzing cafes.
- Architectural landmarks of Piazza del Plebiscito and Galleria Umberto I.
- A visit to Herculaneum or Pompeii.
- Shopping along Via Toledo.
Castel Sant’Elmo
Take the Funiculare di Montesanto (one of three which ascend Mount Vomero) and you will be just a short walk from Castel Sant’Elmo. Only €1.10 for a single ticket and a couple minutes journey time. The funicular station is a 5 minute walk from ‘Montesanto’ metro station. From the entrance to the castle, follow the path up through the fortress which towers majestically above the whole city. From here, you realise the sheer size of Naples with 360-degree views of the city, bay and Vesuvius in the distance. The cacophony of music, sirens, traffic and people from below is incredible. Being quite quirky and unusual, the kids actually quite enjoyed a wander round the small but fun contemporary art gallery too and the sculptures found in the courtyard. Stop in the café here for a coffee with a view.
Piazza del Plebiscito and Galleria Umberto I
The impressive Piazza del Plebiscito, a sight you would expect to see in Rome or Paris, has a sense of grandeur that isn’t evident elsewhere in the city and you stumble across it from the bustling shopping street of Via Toledo. Full of buskers attracting a crowd, you’ll find opera and classical music on one side and singers covering modern charts on the other. Via Toledo is the place to go for shopping with both high street and designer brands. Another flashback to a time of grandeur and luxury, Galleria Umberto I is a stunning building with an attractive glass and steel domed roof but somehow lacks the opulence it would’ve once had.
Lungomare
At the end of Via Toledo and past Piazza del Plebiscito, you’ll come to the seafront (Lungomare) which is a 3km stretch encompassing virtually the whole width of the city out to the suburbs. Visiting on Easter weekend, it was teaming with locals, young and old and tourists, enjoying a walk or dining and drinking in the many bars and restaurants looking out to Vesuvius on the horizon. We found a lovely spot for a drink next to Castel dell’Ovo.
Pizza making class
For a fun early evening activity, we booked a small group pizza making class. We found this one on Viator and thought it was pretty reasonable with a drink and starter included as well as our pizza for dinner. Our chef Ricardo was very fun and informative and had plenty of jokes. Taking us through the steps to making the perfect Neapolitan pizza, we realised just how much time and skill goes into it. Using just smashed up San Martino tomatoes (grown locally in volcanic soil and so tasty) for the marinara sauce and mozzarella, it was a simple but delicious pizza. A short walk from Via Toledo and the Lungomare, it was ideally located to finish off our day of sightseeing.
A visit to Herculaneum
A must see when visiting this area and only 20 minutes by train from Naples. Take the Circumvesuviana train from Napoli Centrale (Piazza Garibaldi) to Ercolano Scavi for around €4 per person return.
Pick up an audio guide and wander around this tragic but fascinating piece of history. We were all wowed by how well it has been preserved. Arriving at around 10am, the queues weren’t too bad and once inside it was fairly relaxed and we weren’t struggling to get a look inside the various sights.
Catching a glimpse of Roman life including the men’s baths with the different rooms and the thermopoliums, the roman snack bar, brought to life the many school homework tasks. Walking along what would have been the main high street, shop advertisements still remain. Looking at the mosaics and art on the walls and floors, it is incredible they are still in tact and unscathed. The skeletons in the boatyard are another reminder of how the residents didn’t fair so well after trying to flee by boat from the beach. Visiting in April, the weather was perfect for exploring and the colourful wild flowers were in bloom contrasting against the stone ruins.
We visited on Easter Monday and as we turned down the street from the station we were met with a lively procession with music and fire crackers going off. Throughout our visit, we could hear it in the distance. You can also take the bus from here up to Mount Vesuvius but it was quite pricey at €25 per person (including the entrance ticket) so we decided to head back to Naples and enjoy the views from Castel Sant’Elmo.
If you’re looking for lunch here, the restaurants and cafes weren’t too exciting and a bit of a tourist trap so waiting until you’re back in Naples or bringing something with you is your best bet. They are ok for a coffee stop though.
We chose Herculaneum over Pompei which is considerably larger as we thought it would be more engaging for the kids. It is much smaller and more compact and the buildings and artifacts have been better preserved.
Where to stay
We stayed in this newly renovated apartment on the outskirts of the Centro Storico. It was around 20 minutes’ walk from the main train station, ideal for arriving from Sorrento and taking a day trip to Herculaneum. Perfect for a family of four, with two bedrooms and very modern furnishings and facilities. The owners (mother and daughter) were lovely and showed us around the neighbourhood including the nearest supermarket and best restaurants and local dishes to try and even left a bottle of prosecco for us.
Getting from the airport
A taxi from Naples airport to Naples Centrale train station will cost around €20 for up to 4 people. We realised this after paying €5 each for a bus ticket. Both options take around 15 minutes. From here, if you’re heading into Naples you can either walk to the historic centre in about 20 minutes or jump on the metro which is cheap and efficient. To make your way onto Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast (buses depart from Sorrento as this is the end of the route by train), the Circumvesuviana is the cheaper, slower, more crowded and basic choice but at a price of €4 a ticket as opposed to €15 for the Campania Express, it does the job. You’ll get a scenic view as you hug the coastline and buskers playing music to keep you entertained.
Fam Full of Wanderlust 