We’ve just returned from a sunny stay in Seville for October half term. It was an excellent choice for a city break with teenagers with enough to keep them engaged in between visiting some of the stunning architecture Andalucía has to offer. After finding some bargain BA flights (with terrible departure times), we decided on four nights in Seville although you could probably cover the sights in fewer days. With teenagers enjoying a lie in and a leisurely brunch, it was a nice chilled break and not the usual pace of a city break.
Top sights and experiences
- Plaza de España and Parque de María Luisa
- Taking in a flamenco show
- Marvelling at the intricate Moorish architecture of the Alcazar de Sevilla
- A train ride to Cordoba and experiencing the beauty of the Mezquita-Catedral
- Touring the impressive Sevilla FC stadium
- Isla Magica Theme Park
- Clothes shopping on Calle Sierpes
- Museo de las Ilusiones
Day 1: Plaza de España and Parque de María Luisa
With a very early morning flight, we had dropped our bags at our apartment and were sitting down in a tapas bar by lunchtime sipping on a glass of Tinto de Verano (red wine and soda). We got our bearings and wandered through the Santa Cruz district (old town), past the magnificent cathedral, Alcazar and Plaza del Toros all the way down to the riverside. Along the Guadalquivir River you’ll find several cafe bars with chilled gardens to while away the afternoon. A popular spot for cyclists, runners and strolling along enjoying the view of the colourful buildings of the Triana district across the river and the Torre del Oro watchtower. There are plenty of cruises up and down the river too.
We were disappointed to walk all the way to Parque de María Luisa to find it was closed due to storm damage. With beautiful Moorish fountains, tiled benches and exotic gardens, it seemed ideal after our 4am start. We had also planned to hire one of the four person bikes from Cyclotour found inside the park. Luckily, the magnificent Plaza de España with its grand archways, colourfully tiled bridges and sparkling ponds and fountains was open. An explosion of colour and flamboyance, it’s the perfect place for an insta-worthy photo shoot and just sitting and people watching. This grand semicircular square is lined with a series of brightly painted tiles each displaying historical scenes and maps from each Spanish province and if you’re lucky you might catch one of the city’s flamenco artists putting on a show for all to enjoy.
Day 2: Shopping, Alcazar de Sevilla and an evening Flamenco show
With two teenagers and one especially into her fashion, Seville’s main shopping district was great. Along Calle Sierpes, Calle Velázquez and surrounding streets you’ll find all the major international brands (Zara, H&M, Bershka, Mango) as well as Spanish fashion brands and smaller independent, boutique stores.
What we loved about Seville is although it is pretty big, it was a very walkable city and after a few days, everything felt fairly close to each other. We would often appear back in a familiar square not realising it was nearby. Stumbling on the Alcazar and neighbouring La Giralda and Catedral, on the first day, these architectural wonders stand majestically within the hustle and bustle of modern city life. We didn’t go inside the cathedral but certainly appreciated its sheer size as the world’s largest Gothic cathedral.
The Alcazar de Sevilla is a beautiful royal palace with, like many buildings in Andalucia, Mudejar and Christian influences over the years and the colourful tilework and golden, intricate patterns filling the interiors are stunning. Unfortunately, the gardens were closed due to maintenance so something to be aware of if visiting in winter. After a trip to the Alhambra Palace in Granada with its impressive gardens with trickling water channels and peaceful patios, it was a shame not to experience it at the Alcazar. There’s also a hedge maze which would been fun for children. Definitely pre-book your tickets online and go for an early morning slot if possible, for fewer crowds.
As Andalucia is the home of flamenco, we were keen to experience it and Seville has an exceptional choice of venues with late night shows and earlier performances for families. We chose Tablao Flamenco Las Setas located within Las Setas. The 1hr 30 minute show was fantastic with such talented artists. From the spine-tingling voices of the cantaores (singers), to the power and passion of the dancers accompanied by the guitarist, it was a deeply emotive and evocative experience. The setting is small enough to retain an intimate atmosphere with the audience seated close to the stage on all sides. You can purchase cocktails, drinks and small tapas dishes from your table to enjoy with the performance too.
Day 3: Las Setas, Museo de las Ilusiones and Isla Magica
In contrast to the more traditional sights of Seville, the contemporary Las Setas (Metropol Parasol) is a huge honeycomb like structure mainly constructed of wood. At €15 per person (discounted family tickets also available), we didn’t pay to go up on the viewing platform and walkways but quite a fun thing to do at night when it’s illuminated with colours and patterns and you can enjoy 360-degree views of the city. There’s also a small indoor market underneath mainly selling fresh fruit, vegetables, meat and fish but also a few counters for coffees, pastries and tapas.
Located in the heart of the shopping district of Seville, the Museo de las Ilusiones is fantastic for all ages and offers a break from the cultural sights of the city. There are only a couple of rooms but they are filled with exhibits and the team there are on hand to show you how things work. The illusion rooms and installations including the vortex tunnel, mirrors, and gravity room are good fun. It’s easy to spend an hour here and the family ticket is €36. Check it out here.
On route to Isla Magica we wandered past Mercado de Feria. Worth a visit to sample some tapas with a glass of wine in one of the bars behind the food stalls. An understated setting but clearly a favourite with locals so if you’re lucky you can get a table or sit at the bar.
Opening for a special Halloween evening, Isla Magica, located just over the river on the outskirts of the city, was so much fun. It opened at 3pm and was surprisingly quiet to start with so we managed to get on all the best rides with hardly any wait at all. There were also some great Halloween themed attractions including the scary Los Pasajes del Terror (some definitely not for under 12s).
I was persuaded on to El Jaguar rollercoaster and El Desafío, a free fall of 68 metres (the tower to the left in the first photo). We weren’t quite daring enough for the balloon ride though.
Slightly calmer rides including the Anaconda (log flume with three drops), swings, pirate ship and 4D cinema were brilliant. Lots for younger children and a water park open during the summer months. The park has a full timetable of live shows too. Find out more here.
Halloween is big here and the costumes of visitors at Isla Magica were seriously impressive. On our walk back we passed through Alameda de Hercules. Popular with locals, the bars were heaving with parents enjoying a drink whilst their children ran around in the play area in front, and sat together admiring their mountain of sweets collected from trick or treating. They certainly love Halloween here and the noise must have hit some serious decibels.
Day 4: A train ride over to Cordoba
With only 45 minutes train journey between the two cities, we spent a day in Cordoba. There are high speed trains frequently throughout the day and a cheaper, slower option which takes around 1 hour 20 minutes. Tickets can be booked online at Renfe.com.
On arrival at Cordoba train station, it’s a pleasant 20-minute walk through public gardens to the Mezquita. On your way, you’ll pass through the winding whitewashed streets of the Jewish Quarter. Very touristy and full of souvenir shops but quite charming nonetheless. The main attraction and with good reason, the awe-inspiring Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba can be found just before you reach the river. The size and beauty of this architectural wonder is mesmerising, with its fusion of Islamic, renaissance and Spanish baroque styles. Book online in advance as it is very popular. The queue seemed crazy when we first arrived at the Patio de los Naranjos but once inside, it was surprisingly calm with space to wander. The series of dark archways with light beaming through the stained-glass windows and then in the middle, a total contrast with a light, ornately decorated cathedral with intricate stonework.
We then climbed the 54 metre high Bell Tower (tickets pre-booked for €3 pp). At the top, you’ll be met with 360 degrees views of the white washed city below and a patchwork of tiled rooftops with a golden sunlit hue including that of the spectacular Mezquita.
After visiting the Alcazar in Seville, we didn’t book tickets for the Alcazar in Cordoba but worth a visit if you have longer and are visiting during spring and summer months when the gardens are at their best.
Day 5: Sevilla FC Stadium
To finish off our stay in Seville, we booked a tour of Sevilla FC Stadium. With a family of sport lovers, it was great to check out the changing rooms, walk through the players’ tunnel and sit in the VIP boxes, benches and press room. The history experience was also an engaging insight into the development of the club. We walked from our apartment which took around 30 minutes but there are buses from the city centre. If you fancy doing some shopping, Nervion Plaza is right next door and has lots of well-known international brands. Tours can be booked here.
Where to eat in Seville
Moya Brunch – Loved this place so much we went there twice during our stay. A pink themed venue, with seating indoors and along the narrow side street. Sitting outside in the sunshine for breakfast in November with the church bells ringing was just wonderful. Incredible brunch menu with pancakes, egg dishes and delicious acai bowls with homemade granola.
Mokambo – Another good brunch option.
Jester – Small café popular for its smoothie bowls. Limited outdoor seating so unfortunately, we didn’t get to try it but looked amazing.
Panypui – Popular local bakery with pastries, sandwiches, freshly squeezed orange juice and decent coffee. Ideal for a quick, on the go breakfast.
El Monasterio Heladeria – Delicious ice cream with lots of flavours to choose from.
Love Horno Artesano – Situated in a little square, we had the most delicious cakes here – lemon meringue cake and a custard and apple cake.
La Gallina Bianca – Lovely Italian restaurant with extensive pizza, pasta and salad menus.
Bodeguita Iglesias – Traditional tapas bar with streetside tables. Located between the cathedral and Plaza de Toros.
El Pasaje Santa Maria – Contemporary tapas bar with traditional Spanish plates alongside other mediterranean fusion dishes.
Lasanta – Tapas bar with contemporary dishes in addition to the traditional favourites. Indoor seating and also outdoor tables on a lively street with views of Las Setas.
Sibuya Urban Sushi – Reasonably priced, contemporary Japanese chain restaurant with cozy booths.
Where to stay in Seville
There are many reasonably priced central hotels but for a family of four, we always find an apartment works out much cheaper and gives you a bit more space. We booked this modern apartment through Airbnb and it was perfect for us. Located in a quiet street but within a few minutes’ walk of several lively plazas full of locals enjoying some tapas. The Alcazar, Catedral and Plaza de Espana were all within walking distance. If you have a late flight, there are luggage lockers located all over the city. It was easy to book online and around £30 for our four hand luggage cases for the day.
How to get from Seville airport
The cheapest option is the dedicated bus service taking you into Seville and the cost is just €4 per person each way. There are various stops depending on where you’re based in the city. Plan your route here.
Love Andalucía? Check out our other trips below.
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