A country of contrasts, this 10 night itinerary in Montenegro will take you from the shores of Lake Skadar and the breath-taking scenery of Durmitor National Park to the rapids of the Tara River and the beautiful Adriatic town of Perast where the mountains meet the sea.
- 3 nights in Virpazar, Lake Skadar
- 2 nights in Zabljak, Durmitor National Park
- 2 nights in Waterfall Rafting Center, Pluzine
- 3 nights in Perast, Kotor Bay
How to get there
There are two international airports in Montenegro.
Podgorica Airport – more central and best for exploring Lake Skadar and the north.
Tivat Airport – Best for Kotor Bay but could also work with visiting other parts of the country too.
First stop: 3 nights in Virpazar, Lake Skadar
We based ourselves just outside Virpazar which is one of the main gateways to Lake Skadar. The town itself is functional with a supermarket, some decent restaurants, plenty of boat companies and a few mid range hotels. Staying up in the mountains above gave us a little piece of paradise away from all the day trippers though.
Day 1:
The best way to experience Lake Skadar is to get out on the water and it is best explored early on in the morning before the crowds descend on it. As we headed out, there were miles between us and the next boat but on our return the boats were queuing up to take people out. Our guide took us through the narrow canal from Virpazar and out on to the main part of the lake which was teaming with birds and wildlife. The emerald water with a blanket of water lillies was so still and shimmering in the morning sun. We passed Grmožur Island which served as a prison until the early 20th century and now out of bounds due to its snake population. We then had the opportunity for a swim in one of the small canals. After seeing several sea snakes on route, it wasn’t quite as tempting but we did manage a quick dip and a go on the rope swing.
There are several providers all trying to get you on board but we pre-booked a 3-hour private tour with Boat Milica who were brilliant. You can also hire kayaks and paddle boards from here. We did originally reserve some for the afternoon but felt there was quite a bit of traffic on the water and maybe best if you’re experienced and can move at a fairly fast pace or are with a guide.
For a viewpoint just an easy, short drive outside of Virpazar, Vidikovac Godinje is a good option with space to stop the car just on the roadside.
Day 2:
On the second day we attempted to follow one of the numerous hikes in the nearby countryside starting from the village of Dupilo and enjoy some waterfalls and river swimming. The trails are not well marked and although we managed to have a swim and a walk, we did struggle to find the starting point and got a bit lost. What we did see was so beautiful and peaceful and offered much needed shade from the summer heat.
Driving in this part of Montenegro was definitely the most challenging and hair raising at times, with hairpins bends, sheer drops and cows in the middle of the mountain roads. Hoopoe Glamping do offer a full day tour in their Land Rover, to all the best spots, which in hindsight would’ve been a better idea and would’ve allowed us to see more of Lake Skadar and the surrounding countryside.
Where to eat
Konoba Demidzana – Traditional menu mainly consisting of grilled meats and fish served with fries and salad. We found most restaurants in Virpazar served a very similar menu. Food was simple, fresh and cheap and portions were very generous.
Boat Restaurant Silistria – We ate here for lunch and dinner and the setting is pretty cool. In the evening, it was lovely sitting on the top deck overlooking the lake. Again, plenty of fresh fish and grilled meats. The trout was cooked to perfection.
Hoopoe Glamping – Each night, the chef creates a different 3-course menu which is served on the terrace with views of the garden and mountains in the distance. A kids option is available at a discounted price too.
Where to stay
Hoopoe Glamping
Aside from the worst mosquito bites I’ve ever encountered, this place was truly magical. With kittens chasing each other between the different tents, hedgehogs coming out at night, tortoises making their way in and out of the undergrowth and the scent of wild mint filling the air, you feel immersed in nature. Our family had the Mulberry tent and the Oak tent, the latter having the most incredible shower looking out over the mountains in the distance. The thought that has gone into creating this haven is exceptional. A sumptuous breakfast is served each morning in the bar/restaurant with the most stunning mountain views. The chef cooks up a different but all equally delicious menu each morning. Early evening, we also sat and enjoyed cocktails made with rakija (seriously strong stuff!) as the sun went down. Cooling off in the small plunge pool was much appreciated after a day out and again looks out on to panoramic scenery below.
Fam Full of Wanderlust 