Day 3:
Although the route from Virpazar to Zabljak through Kolasin and passing the Tara Bridge is renowned for its dramatic scenery, we read it can be quite challenging and very busy in summer, so we passed through Niksic instead. The 2 hour 30 minute drive was pretty easy and still very scenic as you head further north. There are several roadside cafes with a view as you pass Niksic, ideal for a mid-morning coffee stop.
In the heart of Durmitor National Park and an ideal base for exploring, Zabljak has a good selection of mid to low-cost accommodation and plenty of restaurants to refuel after an action-packed day. There is also a good sized supermarket in the centre if you decide on self-catering.
Day 4:
There are many trails and hikes to discover but with just one day to explore, two of the most popular and ideal for all ages are Black Lake (Crno Jezero) and Snake Lake (Zminje Jezero). Just a short drive from Zabljak, park at Black Lake and enjoy the 8.8km circular route. Parking on the roadside here, just before the visitor centre, fills up fast so arriving by around 9am is a good idea. A National Park entry fee of €5 for adults and over 15s applies.
A pleasant 10-minute stroll along a well-maintained track through the forest leads you to Black Lake where you are met with breathtaking views. The water shimmers with shades of turquoise and emerald and the reflection of surrounding pine trees and mountain peaks tower in the distance. To experience this natural wonder at its best, rent a rowing boat or kayak – we ended up doing both (€10 for rowing boats and €5 for double kayaks). Once you’re out in the middle of the lake, it is so still and peaceful and you are just in awe of its beauty. The trail on to Snake Lake is well signposted and takes you through beautiful forest and over trickling streams. Snake Lake is hidden within the depths of the national park and is definitely quieter than Black Lake, but not quite so mesmerising. Alternatively, for a shorter walk you can just enjoy Black Lake along the 3.6km path which circles it. There is a large café here but if you’re planning a long hike, picnic items can be picked up in Zabljak. If you’re brave you can also enjoy a refreshing dip. We lasted a few minutes alongside a few other crazy people and this was in August.
Several tour companies can be found in Zabljak if you fancy something more exciting with mountain biking, horse riding and quad biking on offer.
Day 5:
We set out for our third stop, Pluzine along the P14 scenic road (part of the 75km circular route known as the Durmitor Ring) and this was the perfect way to appreciate the incredible Durmitor National Park. The first hour of the drive through the southern part of Durmitor National Park is jaw dropping, one of the most incredible drives we’ve ever done. Bear in mind if you stop even for a quick photo at the main viewpoints, the rangers will charge you the €5 park fee (no charge to drive through though).
As you get closer to Pluzine, the landscape changes and you make your way down the mountain along hairpin bends and are met with the most spectacular views of Piva Lake below. Throughout the drive between Zabljak and Pluzine you have to seriously concentrate and it can be a little hairy in places but on the whole the roads are well maintained and wide enough for two cars. Take your time and enjoy the view!
Where to eat
Restaurant Oro – Right in the heart of Zabljak and very popular for both eating and drinking. We also had breakfast here sampling two Montenegrin specialities, Priganice (warm donuts with cherry sauce) and Masanica (chunks of bread in a sauce made of milk and cheese served with honey). The latter was an interesting choice for breakfast but somehow quite moorish.
Restaurante Izvor – Set just off the main road into Zabljak, this busy restaurant serves hearty breakfasts and evening meals. The mountain views are pretty awesome too.
Krcma Nostalgija – Cosy, little restaurant serving huge portions of simple but tasty grilled meat with potatoes and vegetables – not great for vegetarians.
Fam Full of Wanderlust 