Day 8:
Today we left Pluzine in the north and made our way to the coast. As you drive down towards the sea, you are met with the most incredible scenery of Kotor Bay. Azure waters and terracotta roof tops encompassed by mountains which glow with a pastel pink hue at sunset.
We booked a hotel in Perast, which after driving through some of the other towns and resorts, had to be the most charming place on the coastline. In a sheltered position looking out across the bay with a dramatic mountain backdrop, it was a little piece of paradise both day and night. Watching the sunset with a cocktail and enjoying a delicious seafood dinner in one of the many waterfront restaurants, was just perfect. The village itself is very small and centered around the seafront promenade with its attractive historic buildings. At night, it is fairly chilled and low key with a couple of bars for sundowners and a few ice cream parlours for dessert.
We hoped to visit the old walled town of Kotor which is just 15 minutes’ drive away but after driving through it, decided against it. The traffic was bumper to bumper and parking spots were hard to come by. Popular with cruise ships, it was just hideously busy and in the heat, not very appealing. Mega cruise liners charge through and the sheer size is both a monstrosity against the beauty of the bay but somehow quite an incredible sight. If you can plan your trip in the quieter months, it is well worth a day or two and most of the boat trips start from here. A bus service also runs between Perast and Kotor but again it’s very popular in summer.
Day 9:
A fantastic way to experience Kotor Bay is from the water so we booked a private speedboat for a morning trip. There are several boat companies on the harbourfront in Perast and the cost is around €240 for a 2 hour 30 minute tour based on 6 people. Taking us out of the bay past Herceg Novi and Mamula Island (a 19th century fort turned luxury resort) and on to the Blue Caves, the scenery was breathtaking. The Blue Cave was already rammed with boats even by 10am which spoilt it somewhat. We had a swim just outside it and headed quickly out of there to a quieter cove for more swimming. Then we were off to venture inside one of the submarine tunnels built by the Yugoslav army which was pretty cool. We finished our tour on Our Lady of the Rocks Islet, which was packed with tourists and probably best appreciated from Perast itself. We all loved speeding through the bay and taking in the scenery though.
There aren’t really any beaches as such in Perast but at either end of the village, you can access the water and many people enjoy the water straight off steps dotted along the promenade. Perast Beach has a small shaded concrete area where you can lay your towels but it does get very crowded. The other option is to hire a sunbed at Pirates Beach Bar which gives you access to a shingle beach but it can add up when you’re paying for the whole family. With a pool overlooking the sea, this was a more favourable option but it is of course nice to swim in the sea too.
Day 10:
Sitting admiring the view at breakfast, feeling sad to be leaving, we had a text to say our flight was cancelled until the following day. After a rather stressful morning of sorting accommodation and car hire, we got straight in the pool and enjoyed another evening in Perast.
Day 11:
The journey back to Podgorica airport takes between 2-2 hours 30 minutes depending on the time of day but bear in mind the traffic through Kotor during the summer months. We took the route through Kotor, Budva and then Cetinje. As we drove out of Kotor, we saw the Kotor Cable Car. In just 11 minutes you have the bay of Kotor beneath you and Lovćen Mountain towering above. A fun opportunity if you have time on the way home. A stop in the leafy former royal capital of Montenegro, Cetinje, worked well to break up the journey. The five-star Gradska Hotel with its chilled outdoor terrace and reasonably priced lunch menu was a welcome respite in the blazing midday sun.
Where to stay
Set over five Baroque style palaces dotted around Perast, with the main reception and restaurant on the seafront, this hotel has so much character. We had the Private Entrance Three-Bedroom Apartment with Patio and Sea View and it was very spacious with a lovely courtyard. The small pool is located in a separate building a few minutes’ walk away and has a drinks service throughout the day. Set in an elevated position, the views across the harbour are stunning. The best part was breakfast which was served on the waterfront with fish swimming below your table and a view of the Our Lady of the Rocks Islet across the water.
Where to eat
Konoba Otok Bronza – Fresh seafood and fish right on the seafront.
Konoba Skolji – Set back from the waterfront with a pleasant outdoor terrace. Traditional meat dishes in addition to fresh fish and seafood. We had the lamb and tuna dishes which were both delicious.
Fam Full of Wanderlust 