A flying visit but ideal for experiencing the highlights of this charming coastal city.
Day 1: Tapas lunch and a relaxing afternoon at La Perla Spa
Arriving at lunchtime, we stopped for a lovely lunch at the lively and bustling Casa Valles Restaurant. Traditional tapas dishes with an array of mouth-watering pintxos perfect with a glass of chilled rose.
With a blanket of low-lying cloud covering the city and a light drizzle, the La Perla Spa was just what we needed after a very early morning flight. Located on the seafront with access to La Concha Beach, La Perla Spa is well worth a visit especially if you happen to have a cooler, showery day which is fairly common in this part of Spain. With a series of different pools with varying temperatures and facilities including a sauna, steam room and jacuzzi, you will feel relaxed and revitalised. The hydrojets placed to target different muscle groups are great for aching bodies. Another favourite was the waterbed room. With chilled music and low lighting, it was bliss. We weren’t brave enough to try it but plenty of people cooled off afterwards with a run across the sand through the fog and plunged into the sea. It certainly would be invigorating but the cold pool and ice station was good enough for us. Towels can be rented here if you’re travelling light along with very attractive swimming caps which are required for all guests, also available at an extra cost.
Day 2: The beaches of San Sebastian, Monte Urgell, the Old Town, and more Pintxos.
Take in the beautiful La Concha Bay from both perspectives with Monte Igueldo at one end and Monte Urgell at the other. We enjoyed a morning stroll along the bay all the way to Monte Igueldo. We were keen to venture up to the top but after seeing the queue for the funicular we decided against it. With an old-fashioned funfair at the top, it would be worth the wait if you have young children in tow.
On the way back, we stopped at the Miramar Palace with its colourful gardens offering a place to relax and appreciate the view of the bay. With neatly arranged flower beds and blooming hydrangeas, it has British seaside town vibes. With several Belle Époque style buildings dotted along the promenade, it felt more like some of the French and British seaside towns we’ve visited rather than typical Spanish architecture further south. We then stopped at Café de la Concha for a morning coffee stop with a prime seafront location and great for people watching.
As you come to the end of the promenade, join the path from Calle Mari between the old town and the port. Heading up towards the cannons you are met with incredible views over the sweeping bay and Santa Maria Island. Following the path shaded by beautiful dense forest and pines and birds tweeting, you can climb up to the top of the castello, home to the Sagrado Corazón (Sacred Heart) statue. Then make your way back down on the other side, leading you back into the old town past the San Telmo Museum (dedicated to the history and culture of the Basque Country) and the peaceful Placa Zuloaga.
Having visited many cities and towns in Spain, the old town has a very similar feel with narrow, cobbled streets, a beautiful church and basilica and an attractive placa (Placa de la Constitución) adorned with brightly coloured flowers and wrought iron balconies. The pintxos bars are buzzing here but more so with tourists and the prices are slightly higher but still fun to visit.
We were much luckier with the weather today so a few hours on the beach was a must. All three beaches have soft golden sand and are incredibly clean for town beaches. With a wide stretch of sand and set down from the promenade, they didn’t feel too busy and offer a welcome retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city – a popular space for locals enjoying a run or yoga session and families and friends chilling out. Early evening we came across a dance club using it for their weekly meeting.
La concha is the largest central beach and then becomes Ondarreta Beach from Miramar Palace to Monte Igueldo. Here you’ll find excellent shower and changing facilities, a children’s play area and chairs and parasols can be rented. There are also floating platforms with slides you can swim out to.
Zurriola Beach, on the other side of the old town and Mount Urgell attracts a young, surfer crowd and is a hive of activity with volleyball and surfing. Located in the district of Gros, as you venture away from the coast, you’ll find some great pintxos bars popular with locals. At sunset, people of all ages from teenagers hanging out, to families taking their toddlers for a stroll all stop to watch it set over the water with a glow radiating off the surrounding buildings. A lovely way to work off one too many pintxos, carry on walking along the seafront past Mount Urgell and through the old town. As you wander out on to the promenade stretching along La Concha Bay, the sea is lit up by the twinkling lights of the city in full swing.
Where to stay
There are many hotels to choose from and as you head closer to the coast and old town, prices are higher but for a short break it’s worth it. We stayed at the Intelier Victoria which was in a fantastic location within a short walk of La Concha Beach, the old town and the bus station for arrivals from Bilbao airport. Air conditioning wasn’t great but the room was spacious enough and the bed was comfortable. Overall, not bad for £135 a night. With a family or group, we would probably have gone for an Airbnb though.
Where to eat
San Sebastian is renowned for its gastronomic scene with an incredible number of Michelin starred restaurants but pintxos bar hopping is the best way to experience the regional cuisine alongside the locals. The bars are lined with beautifully arranged pintxos which will make your mouth water, mainly featuring slices of baguette topped with anchovies, prawns, cheese and serrano ham. Washed down with a chilled glass of rosé or white (and only €2-3 in most places!), it is perfect for a lively lunch or evening. There are usually larger tapas dishes and daily specials on the boards above the bar which can be ordered in addition to the pintxos. Hop from one to another soaking up the bustling atmosphere and be prepared to push your way to the bar. Choose from the more traditional offerings to contemporary fusion cooking incorporating dishes from around the world. For dessert you’ll find bakeries and cafes serving up the famous Torta de Queso (Basque Cheesecake) and you can’t visit without trying it. With a caramelised burnt top and no crust, we had the most delicious slice of this crustless, baked and caramelised cheesecake in La Espiga, an unassuming Pintxos bar but a definite favourite of ours. Make sure you try the Txakoli, a dry slightly sparkling white wine produced in the area.
Txakolina – Old Town
Atari – Old Town
La Espiga – Centro
Casa Valles – Centro
Bodega Donstriara – Gros
Located just round the corner from Intelier Victoria these two cafes make excellent breakfast options. Both serve the favourite Spanish tostas with a modern twist (traditionally topped with crushed tomato and Serrano ham), delicious açai bowls, fresh smoothies and an extensive coffee menu.
La Issla
Delices Maitza
How to get there
If you’re not visiting as part of a longer trip to the region and have a car, the Lurradesbs is an excellent transfer option from Bilbao airport to San Sebastián. The journey is 1 hour 15 minutes which is the same by car or taxi. Tickets currently cost €12.90 for a single and they are comfortable and air-conditioned coaches. They operate every half an hour and tickets can be purchased online, at the self-service ticket machine or on the bus if you have cash. It’s pretty much one straight stretch of motorway and fairly scenic with mountain views.
Fam Full of Wanderlust 