Sandy beaches, beautiful mountain villages, boat trips with snorkelling and breathtaking coastal drives, topped off with waterparks for the kids, Mallorca has everything for family summer holiday.
We based ourselves in Soller on the northwestern coast and for me this has to be one of the most scenic parts of the island. With the Tramuntana mountains meeting the Mediterranean Sea and charming old towns and villages to explore, it’s a magical region.
Waking up to the sounds of cockerels (sometimes a little too early) and the sun rising over the mountains, our finca, located just minutes from Soller was a little piece of paradise. Walking down through the tiered gardens with orange and lemon trees, you reach a welcoming pool surrounded by spectacular views. The house itself was traditional and full of character and very well equipped. With a canopy of bougainvillea, the large outdoor dining terrace was perfect for leisurely lunches and al fresco evening meals. The villa details can be found here.
Day 1: Soller
Our first day was spent getting our bearings with a visit into Soller. We were expecting it to be a challenge to park but managed to find a space easily in one of the central car parks. First stop was Plaza de la Constitución, in the heart of the town. A lively square with cafes and restaurants and home to Iglésia de San Bartolomé. Teaming with tourists but a nice spot for a coffee nonetheless whilst watching the famous Soller tram make its way across the square taking visitors down to the port. As you wander along the narrow side streets, you are met with views of the mountains in every direction. Just off the main square, you can walk along Calle de Sa Lluna where you’ll find local boutique clothing, jewellery and homeware shops or head towards the tram stop at Plaza de España for a ride to Port de Soller. The historic wooden train which transports visitors between Soller and Palma with mountain vistas on route, is another fun activity. With an afternoon flight home, we decided to visit Palma on our departure day though. The scenery during the spring is supposed to be wonderful with a blanket of almond blossom covering the countryside.
Day 2: Deia, Cala Deia and Valldemossa
The drive from Soller to Deia is stunning with a winding mountain road and sea views. Perched on the edge of the Tramuntana mountains with views of the coastline below, the honey-coloured houses and tiered gardens of Deia are an enchanting sight. Deia is not great for parking in high season but arriving quite early we were lucky enough to get a space close to the centre. There’s not a huge amount to see here in terms of sights and shopping but lovely for a coffee or lunch stop and just taking in the idyllic, peaceful surroundings. Wander up through the quiet cobbled streets to Iglesia San Juan Bautista for breathtaking views across the valley. There was also a craft market on when we visited with some beautiful ceramics and jewellery and a bohemian vibe.
For a refreshing dip, we then walked from the town down to Cala Deia along a shady, wooded path taking around 30 minutes. This secluded rocky cove was very busy with people laying their towels on any spare rock they could find. The water is pretty nice and clear but definitely somewhere to enjoy out of peak season. Ca Patro’s March Restaurant is a popular spot for lunch.
Just a 20-minute drive on from Deia, Valldemossa is another idyllic town not to be missed. The pretty streets lined with colourful bunting are a joy to explore and the gardens – Jardins Rei Joan Carlos – situated in front of the Iglesia de la Cartuja are lovely and shady on a hot August day. On the other side of the town, further down in the valley, the beautiful Iglesia de San Bartolomé stands majestically, amidst towering mountain peaks.
For a sweet treat, there are plenty of bakeries and cafes serving the famous Mallorcan Ensaimada (a sweet bread sprinkled with sugar and often with the addition of various yummy fillings) and the delicious granizado de almendra, a creamy almond frozen drink perfect in the summer heat and a favourite of ours).
Day 3: Waterpark time
There are several waterparks in Mallorca and we opted for Western Water Park located near Magaluf. As to be expected in August, it was fairly busy and we gave up on a few of the popular rides but there were still a decent number to choose from and plenty of pools to cool off in. We’ve visited some waterparks where a sun lounger and parasol (at extortionate prices) are essential but there was a large shaded grassy area with room to lay your towel and eat your picnic. The park had a good variety of smaller, tame rides and more hair-raising rides including the Boomerang. This 15-metre-high half pipe ride drops you down and then propels you up the other side – the kids loved it but for me it felt like a recipe for whiplash and I came off looking rather green.
Day 4: Formentor Beach and Pollensa
The drive down from Port de Pollenca to Formentor is breathtaking with hairpin bends hugging the coastline. Once you see the signs for parking, make sure you opt for the free car park (this fills up quickly so getting there early is a must). A few members of our group ended up a little further down and faced with a €25 ticket which is a crazy price to pay for a morning on the beach. Situated on the northern tip of the island, this crescent shaped beach has soft white sand and the most inviting crystal-clear water. Backed by the Tramuntana mountains and lush pine forest, the scenery is spectacular here. Sun loungers and parasols can be hired and there are several cafes and restaurants to choose from. We stopped for pizzas at La Veranda which were decent enough – quite pricey but large enough to share for lunch. The only downside in August was the crowds. We do prefer a quieter beach where you’re not packed in like sardines. It would be perfect in low season though.
Pollensa Town has a relaxed feel with a charming old town, a main square full of cafes and restaurants and winding cobble streets with boutique shops. We stopped on the way home to check it out and an ice cream and break from the beach.
Day 5: Charter a boat to explore the coastline
As a treat, we chartered a sailing boat from Perfect Charters and it was a fantastic experience. Opting for the 4-hour half day trip, our captain tailored the route based on what we wanted to see and do and swimming and snorkelling was a must for us all. We stopped at several coves with the first one having the most incredible marine life. Cala Tuent was another beautiful spot to swim and paddle board. Cruising along with our tunes playing and a glass of cava in hand, it was so relaxing. The perfect way to experience the coastline and see it from a difference perspective without navigating hairy, narrow coastal roads and crowds. With 9 of us in the group, this worked out at quite a reasonable cost but there are other cheaper options for group boat trips rather than a private charter which can be booked from Port de Soller.
Day 6: Fornalutx and Port de Soller beach
With so many spectacular hikes to choose from in the Tramuntana mountain range, we woke up early and made the short trip to Fornalutx. With teenagers in tow and very hot weather, this short walk was the next best thing. We found the route from Walking Europe. Parking up close to the centre of the village, we headed to Plaza España for the starting point. Taking you up through the cobble streets and then past orchards, olive groves and gardens, you then head along the main road above the village. With the sun coming up over the mountains and beaming a bright morning light on the rooftops below, it was a lovely way to start the day. The circular route takes you back down into the village from the other side ready for breakfast in the main square. There are several cafes and restaurants to choose from and a delicious bakery nearby. We stopped in Bar Deportivo for the most delicious tostadas. Fornalutx was one of my favourite villages as it has a vibrant yet untouristy vibe (probably due to being so early) and the narrow streets are adorned with flowers and brightly coloured flags. The gardens are beautiful too, almost tropical with cactai and palms. I would love to go back in Spring or Autumn and do some of the proper hikes between villages.
Just a short drive away, Mirador ses Barques is worth a quick stop. You can easily park here and the views of Port de Soller are beautiful. The road up to Fornalutx and Mirador ses Barques is winding but wide and well surfaced and a pleasant route through woodland.
Just minutes from our villa, Port de Soller beach was ideal for some beach time in a lively location with plenty of amenities. Although it is situated next to the harbour, the sweeping, sheltered horseshoe bay has soft sand with plenty of space and the water is clear, calm and shallow. With impressive boats bobbing on the sparkling water and the mountainous green countryside surrounding the port, the setting is very picturesque. As you stroll along the promenade you’ll see the historic wooden tram transporting visitors between the port and Soller just 15 minutes away. We didn’t try it as we had a rental car and it wasn’t cheap for a family of four but the countryside views on route are supposed to be lovely. Pedalos can also be hired here along with sun loungers and umbrellas. With a good choice of fish and seafood restaurants and numerous bars lining the seafront, Port de Soller is a vibrant and fun place to visit in the evening too. La Sal and Es Racó d’es Port are good options when visiting with kids and teens.
Day 7: Palma
With a late afternoon flight, it was a great opportunity to experience the capital, Palma. We made our way into the heart of the city and stopped off at Mercat de l’Olivar. An assault on the senses with colourful displays of fresh fruit and vegetables, mouth-watering scents coming from the numerous bakery stalls and the hustle and bustle of locals ordering their groceries and friends catching up over a glass of wine and tapas. A wonderful place to just to wander round or stop for food with both traditional Spanish and world cuisine on offer. The sushi stall in the fish section was a great choice for lunch. As we made our way down to the cathedral which is situated close to the seafront, we took in the bustling Plaza Major glowing with a golden hue in the sun, along with the main shopping streets full of high street brands and smaller boutique shops. As you pass the Almudaina Palace, you’ll find the leafy S’Hort del Rei Gardens with Andalucian inspired trickling water fountains and plenty of places to sit and escape the summer heat in the city. Not quite in keeping with the beauty of the park but a hit with the teens, you’ll also find rows of market sellers with football shirts and sunglasses in every colour and style. Circling back to the car park past the Catedral-Basilica de Santa Maria de Mallorca, the sheer size and beauty is mesmerising. We didn’t have time to venture inside but a visit to the roof terraces will give you a close up of the stunning rose window, the largest in Europe along with spectacular views of the city. Overall, it was certainly somewhere to visit for a holiday in its own right and an excellent city break destination all year round.
Fam Full of Wanderlust 