With only a few days annual leave left to take, you can easily squeeze in a short break in Crete. With an early flight out and late flight back we had five days exploring the western part of the island and managed to cram in a fair bit. Although it’s not always as predictable at this time of year, we were so lucky with the weather and enjoyed plenty of time on the beach with the benefit of fewer crowds. Due to its southern location, Crete is one of the warmest places in Greece in October with temperatures between 20-25 degrees.
Day 1: Kato Daratso
Arriving early afternoon we spent the first day getting our bearings in our Airbnb’s local neighbourhood. We wanted to be close to Chania but didn’t want the hassle of navigating city traffic every time we went out for the day. Kato Daratso isn’t up there with the most picturesque places on the island but its three beaches are sandy with shallow water and the sunsets here are stunning. We enjoyed an evening swim here and the feeling of the cool water whilst watching the golden glow on the mountains in the distance was just magical. Between two of the beaches – Agii Apostoli and Glaros, there is a hilltop with a small church and the views in both directions are beautiful. Watching the waves crashing on the rocks was invigorating. There’s also a park close by with a play area, outdoor gym and paths lined with pine trees ideal for a morning run. Our Airbnb apartment was very reasonably priced and perfect for the four of us. Two large supermarkets were a 5 minute walk away and there were several restaurants along the main road although it felt very quiet in October compared to the buzzing streets of Chania.
Day 2: Imbros Gorge
Crete has a mountainous terrain and varied landscape brimming with gorges, waterfalls and mountain peaks. There are numerous hikes dotted around the island ranging from the more adventurous to those suitable for all ages. The most famous is Samaria Gorge but we had heard this can be very busy and weren’t sure the teens would appreciate a 16km (6-7 hours) walk. We chose the shorter and quieter Imbros Gorge and weren’t disappointed. The 8km route takes between 2-2 hours 30 minutes to complete and the scenery is stunning with towering rock formations set against the blue sky. We even got to meet the native Kri-Kri goat on route. The track is pretty much straight so you can’t get lost and although uneven in places, we were fine in trainers. It gets narrower at times with the rocks above providing plenty of shade. There are several tavernas you can park in just a short walk from the entrance. We parked here but were then given a ticket for €1 per hour to be paid if we didn’t buy anything. There are other parking areas slightly closer too. The entrance fee is €3 per person in cash. Once you reach the exit, there are a couple of tavernas in the village of Komitades around 5 minutes walk away. A refreshing Greek salad was just what we needed and Taverna Komitades served up a decent lunch. The tavernas also offer a taxi service back to your car (we paid €28 for four of us) unless of course you fancy walking the route again. The drive from Chania takes around 1 hour but the scenery is amazing with good roads to drive on. On route, Despina café offers a surprisingly good coffee for a roadside café along with spectacular views of the valley and mountains.
Day 3: Falassarna Beach
When deciding on where to head to for a beach day, we considered the famous pink sands of Elafonisi and the stunning Balos lagoon but with either a long drive or a full day excursion and ferry ride, Falassarna won. As you make your way down to the beach you may be initially underwhelmed by the view of a large solar farm just above but once you arrive it feels like you could be in the Caribbean. The sand is soft and white with a hint of pink and the water is a tempting turquoise and so clear. With a wide expanse, it felt very uncrowded and there was plenty of space for a game of bat and ball. We parked for free next to Playa Paraiso, a beach bar/restaurant with sun beds to rent. The food and drinks here were excellent with delicious salads and gyros plates at a reasonable price.
Day 4: Georgioupolis, Lake Kournas and Rethymnon
Around an hour’s drive from Chania, this route includes a stop at the coastal resort of Georgioupolis, some pedalo fun at Lake Kournas and lunch in the city of Rethymnon. Just 10 minutes drive from Lake Kournas, Georgioupolis is worth a stop on the way. It has a pleasant sandy beach lined with several decent hotels with lovely terraces to enjoy an iced coffee in the morning sun. The highlight here is the pretty blue and white painted church reached by a rocky path across the water.
Then on to Lake Kournas, which was perhaps not quite as idyllic as we expected but definitely a bit of fun for an hour. This freshwater lake is famous for its turtles which if you’re lucky, can be spotted bobbing their heads above the water. Surrounded by mountains and glistening with shades of emerald and turquoise, getting out on the water with a pedalo rental is the best way to experience it. The water was surprisingly warmer than expected too for those who fancied a dip. There are also a couple of small shingle beaches here with sun beds. Unfortunately the numerous lakeside cafes with smoke and sizzling from their barbecues and spit roasts and souvenir shops somewhat detract from the natural beauty but worth visiting for a change from the beach.
Heading east towards Rethymnon, the drive is very scenic, hugging the coastline. Like Chania, Venetian influences can be seen here with a charming harbour. Walk along the harbour walls to the lighthouse for wonderful views of the colourful fishing boats and lively tavernas and the sweeping town beach a short distance away. With the locals celebrating Ohi Day, the festivities were in full swing with families spilling out of the town’s tavernas and cafes. The winding cobble streets are brimming with souvenir shops, some with the usual stuff but also some with lovely jewellery and textiles. It also has quite a cool, gritty, unpolished vibe in places, with graffiti covered squares contrasting with ancient Ottoman buildings. For a quick bite, stop at one of the many popular gyros joints serving up a tasty pitta filled with chicken or pork and salad. With plenty of fresh fruit on the island, the juice bars offer every combination you could think of and they’re really cheap too. Parking here next to the municipal gardens, on the way back, we wandered along the pathways shaded by a canopy of palm, cypress and eucalyptus trees. The park is a peaceful oasis with a rich fauna and flora from across the island, a children’s play area, café and interesting sculptures.
Day 5: Chania and Marathi beach
Only a 10 minute drive from our apartment, we loved spending the evening in Chania. Buzzing with both locals and tourists, the atmosphere is very vibrant but relaxed. The narrow alleyways are teeming with souvenir and craft shops and the smell of sizzling gyros. The harbour is lit up with a rainbow of colours from the bars and restaurants. It has a very unpretentious vibe with lots of young people out and about but also an excellent choice of more formal dining. As you head away from the harbour, the buildings reflect the faded splendour of bygone times and somehow add to the charm.
We wanted to see the city in the daylight too and the sandy, pastel coloured buildings with their golden hue from the midday sun against the backdrop of the White Mountains and the azure water is very beautiful. Chania is made up of several districts, including a more modern commercial and shopping zone and then as you draw closer to the waterfront, the streets of the old town full of character and charm lead you to the harbour.
If you take a right past the attractive mosque, now home to a small art gallery, with its dusky pink dome, there is a lovely walk passing the 16th century Venetian shipyards and along the harbour walls to the lighthouse. It offers a splendid view looking back on the city.
For convenient parking in Chania, we used Parking Apollon. There is also a frequent bus service between Chania and the nearby coastal towns.
We had read about the famous Koukouvaya Café located just outside of Chania centre, so we decided to try it for lunch. The views across the city and harbour are pretty impressive and it’s a popular spot at sunset. We didn’t feel the cakes quite lived up to the hype but the sandwiches and smoothies were delicious and on a clear sunny day, it was a great place for lunch.
Looking for a beach close to Chania, Marathi beach came up on my search and it was an excellent choice. Very small and literally backed by the road through the village but such a lovely quiet, chilled feel to it. Soft sand with a few rocks as you enter the calm, crystal clear water topped off with fabulous views of the White Mountains. The two beachfront tavernas seemed popular and there is free on street parking.
Where to eat – Chania and nearby
Throumbi – a contemporary restaurant in an atmospheric side street serving tapas style Greek and world cuisine. Perfect for sharing and sampling lots of dishes.
Tamam – Hearty Greek and Middle Eastern inspired dishes with generous portions. Housed in a former Venetian and Turkish public bath, the simple and rustic interior has plenty of charm. With two sittings and queues out the door, reservations online are recommended.
Kariatis – In a quiet street just behind the bright lights and crowds of the harbour, this sophisticated restaurant serves excellent Italian and Japanese dishes. Our pizza and pasta dishes were delicious, the waiters were attentive and the ambience felt classy yet relaxed.
Restaurant Orexi – located on the main road through Kato Daratso, it doesn’t look that inviting from the front but the pretty garden to the side was lovely both day and night and the simple Greek fare washed down with a cocktail or beer was fresh, tasty and reasonably priced. The Cretan salad, similar to Greek salad but made with a slightly creamier cheese and crisp barley or rye rusks, is delicious.
Mix and Match Creperie – If you have room for dessert, this busy takeaway on the outskirts of the old town serves up perfectly crisp crepes with an extensive list of fillings and very cheap compared to UK prices.
Another thing to mention when dining in Crete is you always get a free dessert and shot of house ouzo or raki. This can be anything from homemade biscuits or baklava to a full dessert.
Fam Full of Wanderlust 