Nice and the Cote d’Azur

Nice is perfect for a short break but also works well for a longer duration as the French Riviera is crammed with charming towns and a sparkling coastline. Spending four nights here was ideal for exploring the area and May temperatures were in the low 20s which was just right. With plenty of beaches, leafy parks, lots of train rides and ice cream parlours with every flavour you could think of, it was a successful city break with a lively toddler in tow.

We chose the 4* Nice Riviera Hotel which is a short walk from the Old Town and also walking distance to the train station. A decent hotel with a buffet breakfast and added bonus of an indoor pool which was handy as temperatures weren’t quite warm enough to swim outdoors- also a bit of fun for our little one after being out and about all day.

Vieux Nice (Nice old town) is a wonderful maze of cobbled streets packed with bars, cafes and boutique shops. The Cours Saleya is a hive of activity with a colourful, fragrant flower market and food market selling fresh produce and local specialities. At night, soak in the enchanting atmosphere and find a cosy bistro with just a few tables along one of the tiny alleyways.  With its close proximity to Italy, an Italian influence can be seen with lots of fresh pasta featuring on the menu – our son was happy. Try the delicious Pissaladière (caramelised onion, olive and anchovy tart) for a yummy lunchtime snack or starter. Hearty Provençal beef stew, Ratatouille and Pistou soup (Nice’s version of pesto served on top of a flavoursome vegetable and bean soup) are other traditional dishes worth sampling. Visiting in May, we had lovely warm sunny days and balmy evenings. With a Mediterranean atmosphere, eating out with a toddler was no problem and lots of places had kids menus. Keeping him up a little later, he had great fun dancing around to the live music in the Old Town and watching the street performers.

One afternoon we climbed up to Castle Hill from the Old Town along a leafy, shaded path, passing a lovely artificial waterfall. At the top you will find Parc de la Colline du Chateau which has a great play area . From here, the panoramic views in both directions, the Old Town and also the port, with its sparkling waters and boats coming and going, are incredible – it’s a bit of a hike up but worth it. There is also an elevator built into the rock which will take you up from the Old Town if you don’t fancy the walk.

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Completed after our visit, the Promenade du Paillon is another fabulous outdoor space for kids to run free. The water mirror, fountains and huge, wooden animal themed play structures will keep them busy for a while.

Probably the most famous promenade in France, the Promenade des Anglais runs for around 5 kilometres along the bay of Anges and its inviting azure waters. Here you will find a long stretch of shingle beach made up of private and public sections. Private beach clubs offer loungers, waiter service and lockers. We just sat on the public beach and enjoyed an ice cream and a bit of people watching. Castel beach at the eastern end of the bay offers wonderful views over the bay and calm waters as a result of its sheltered location. It is a public beach but also has a private beach club with a restaurant.

Day trips from Nice

The many towns dotted along the sparkling coastline are easily accessed by train from Nice. Travelling with a toddler this was a fun activity in itself. My son thought the double decker trains were especially exciting.

Villefranche-Sur-Mer is just a short train or bus ride away and offers a charming sandy beach which is a free, public beach. Take a break from the sun and wander round the beautiful old town with its colourful, winding streets that cascade down to the sea.

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Travel towards the Italian border and you’ll come to Menton which also has a pretty promenade with a sandy beach, play area and an equally charming old town climbing up the hillside.

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For a more buzzing beach scene, visit Cannes just along the coast. The palm tree lined promenade full of restaurants and shops and long sandy beach is just a 15-20-minute walk from the train station. Head to the boulevard de Midi for miles of public beach. Admire the seafront hotel palaces with their timeless Art Deco glory and lavish yachts and supercars which are in abundance. Don’t miss the stunning views over the bay from the ramparts of the Place de la Castre which can be found in the Le Suquet district, the oldest part of Cannes. My son was determined to climb to the church at the top not letting go of his bucket and spade, of course.

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Monte Carlo is also easily reached by train (about 20 minutes journey time) and makes for a fun afternoon admiring the luxurious yachts filling the marina and people watching from one of the glamourous waterfront cafes. Again, for a little boy who loves his vehicles, checking out the impressive boats and supercars was fun.