Our autumn family break in North Devon

For the October half term break we headed to North Devon for a cosy weekend full of blustery walks, autumn colours and of course lots of pasties, cream teas and fudge.

We booked a chalet at the Manleigh Park site in Combe Martin which was an excellent base for exploring the coastal towns of Ilfracombe, Woolacombe and Lynton and Lynmouth. The park is set on a hillside overlooking the village and surrounded by rolling countryside. The chalets are well equipped and clean and comfortable. At just under £100 per night, it was ideal for a reasonably priced weekend family break.

Day 1

On our first day we visited the charming yet understated Victorian seaside town of Ilfracombe with its pretty harbour and seafront. We parked close to the high street and then made our way down to the seafront gardens and promenade where the kids enjoyed seeing if they could smash the world champion Jonathan Edward’s triple jump record. The mosaic and bronze cast of Edward’s footprint was created on Ilfracombe seafront to mark his record by artists Shannon Ridd and Jonathan Rodney-Jones.

With the sun now low in the sky, we kicked the football around on the small harbour beach and sat and enjoyed the autumn sunshine with a yummy ice cream from Joe Delucci’s. Don’t miss Roly’s fudge shop, also in the harbour, for some of the best fudge we’ve tried – so creamy and crumbly!

We then wandered to the pier at the entrance of the harbour where the controversial Damien Hirst sculpture ‘Verity’ stands. The 66 foot stainless steel and bronze sculpture is described by Hirst as a “modern allegory of truth and justice”. Love it or hate it, it’s pretty impressive.

Day 2

We woke up to a heavy downpour but were determined to get on the beach anyway. Woolacombe beach is a vast expanse of golden sand backed by dunes and was still a hive of activity with surfers and families even in the rain. It luckily cleared for a few hours so we decided to walk through the dunes and join the trail up to Potters Hill. The views over the town and beach are stunning and it’s only around 2 miles round trip so not too far for little legs. Back in Woolacombe, we stopped at Fudgies Bakehouse for a tasty pasty. So many fillings to choose from with traditional Cornish pasties to veggie and vegan options. You’ve got to love the spirit of everyone eating their picnics and pasties in the rain.

Feeling a bit wet and soggy, we thought what better way to warm up than with a cream tea. Nelly May’s in Ilfracombe is a traditional tearoom with plenty of olde world charm – Think chandeliers and dainty china cups and saucers. It was warm scones served with clotted cream and a choice of homemade jams all round for us. The blackcurrant jam was especially delicious.

Day 3

Around 25 minutes’ drive from Combe Martin, the twin towns of Lynton and Lynmouth make a great day out. We parked in Lynton in a car park just metres from the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway Station. This was the start of our Valley of the Rocks walk. This spectacular 3-mile circular walk is certainly not boring for kids with jaw dropping cliff edges and feral goats. Our kids loved climbing up the rock formations and watching the storm coming in from the sea. Who doesn’t love sheltering in a hail storm under a rock? The paths are very good and we saw lots of families with pushchairs.

Time for more food to warm us up, we had lunch at The Picnic Box in Lynton. With a good choice of sandwiches and soup from just £3 and yummy cakes, it was perfect for a quick lunch.

We then took the steep path down to Lynmouth. The views across the harbour are breath-taking. This lovely town has some wonderful little shops with high quality gifts and homewares. Set in a gorge and straddling the river Lyn, it has a pretty impressive backdrop. For a riverside walk with spectacular autumn colours, you can head out to Watersmeet. We just did part of it and then crossed the bridge and headed back into Lynmouth.

After a day of walking, taking the Lynton and Lynmouth cliff Railway back up was much appreciated and the views over the bay were spectacular. Kids will love the novelty of travelling back up the hill on this water-powered funicular railway.

We were super excited about our star gazing tour in Exmoor National Park as part of the Dark Skies Festival but unfortunately the weather was pretty miserable so it didn’t go ahead but we did drive out to Holdstone Hill (only 10 minutes’ drive from Combe Martin) for a brief star gaze one evening and it was a pretty impressive sight. Time it right and it can be an incredible experience. Find out more about the best star gazing sites here.

Day 4

As Emily loves horses, she was very excited about visiting Exmoor Pony Centre. Due to COVID restrictions, we had to book in advance but it was a well organised short tour. Our guide told us all about the charity, the breed and the day to day activities involved in caring for these beautiful ponies. We got to meet some of the them and give them a stroke. They were very friendly and inquisitive.

Only a 10-minute drive and we were at Tarr Steps. After sitting in the carpark watching the rain lashing down, we braved it and got our waterproofs on. Within minutes the sun was shining and we had a lovely walk. Ideal for families, the short circular walk just over 2 miles long from the ancient clapper bridge following the orange way marks takes you along the river and then back over a footbridge. The autumn colours were incredible.

After our walk we stopped in the town of Dulverton for some lunch before our drive home. This beautiful market town has some excellent cafes, pubs and gift shops. Mortimer’s was an excellent choice for some delicious sourdough toasties and the kids loved the skittles and mars milkshakes. The children’s meals were also very reasonable with a meal, juice and a scoop of ice cream costing £6.

Great places for dinner within 15 minutes’ drive

Settantanove Italian restaurant, Ilfracombe – Amazing stone-baked pizzas and homemade pasta dishes very reasonably priced. Also offers a good menu for children.

Muddiford Inn, Muddiford – Cosy pub offering the usual pub grub including pies, burgers, fish and chips as well as Espetadas (Portuguese hanging kebabs). We had the beef Espetada – delicious! Kids’ menu available too.

Fox and Goose, Parracombe – Unpretentious, traditional pub serving a great choice of fish and meat dishes and pub favourites. Our party had the homemade pie, trio of lamb chops and duck with star anise sauce all served with the most delicious sautéed potatoes and tasty veg with roasted beets, carrots and tender stem broccoli. The puddings were also a hit. The rice pudding with rhubarb compote and sticky toffee pudding were exceptional. Kids’ options available.

Attractions for kids nearby

Exmoor Zoo – We didn’t have time to visit but it gets great reviews and zoos certainly need as much support as possible at the moment.

Watermouth Family Theme Park and Castle – Unfortunately it is currently closed for the rest of the season but check their website when planning your trip for opening dates. Set in a Victorian Castle, this theme park combines fun rides with a touch of nostalgia and landscaped gardens.

Lynton and Barnstable Railway – If you have a little train enthusiast, this is a must! Board the steam train at Woody Bay Station and travel to Killington Lane and back. The two-mile round trip takes around 25 minutes.

An Easter family holiday in South East Devon